On Island

image The journey ends with a ferry ride along the south shore of st thomas, along St. John, with views of Jost, and Sandy, Tobago and Little Thatch ( bought by otter box founder, Curt Richardson for 15 million ). It is a great ride, and a first taste of color, heat and humidity. You’ll need a hat and glasses and to have stripped off all those warm northern layers never to be used again till return day. At the Hayes we had a huge thanksgiving dinner, very welcome after a whole day with just a bag of chips at Newark. In the next few days we went into town to activate our phone, and see what’s what. What’s what is the governor has decided to rebuild the ferry dock and rebuild the sewage line through town during the height if the tourist season! Third world!
John took us to Mulligans for rum and to connect with their friends, and we took Wildfire out for a friendly race against Sweetness. There was no wind we made two grave errors early on. We conceded and took the boat over to Norman for lunch and a snorkel. The whole day was a huge test for Pete’s hip. We obviously need to get hold of some naproxen the heavy duty paint pill left on the dining table at chagrin. On the Sunday we met Sharon and Ed, Dave and Jill, Jane and Peter, Chris and Eric and Jill and Jim and had a brunch at the Tamarind Club. John had saved the prize that we won in the Dark and Stormy in February for us all to enjoy.
I tried the long walk out to Steels point and back while everyone else was sleeping off our brunch. It took over two hours, a great hike. I got out my paints and we swam at Cane Garden, which is a delight once the tourists have gone for their cruise ship. The Hayes left for the ferry and we went into Vanterpool for drugs. The pharmacist wrote out the prescription there and then, and asked how many do we want……Only in the BVI !
Finally we are on our own. It is quiet. Sounds don’t transmit through cement. Most houses are solid , not to suffer the fate of early islanders whose wood and tin houses were constantly blown away in the Hurricanes. It was peaceful except for the inevitable roosters and dogs. We thought the tenants were as contented as us, but on Wednesday morning, Jasmine came calling, disturbed by the neighbors fighting. Awkward ! An hour later the troopers came calling. The police car had polythene duct taped to their car windows. Just a domestic, they say. Nobody’s leaving! (The police car had polythene duct taped over a couple of broken windows.)image
Pete is to take his drugs with food. So off to Omar’s, and then to snorkel at frenchmans reef. We came across a huge green moray, wiggling through the rocks. Pete took himself off in a hurry, bites are not good.. The drug must be working!
Morays have poor vision and rely mostly on their acute sense of smell, making distinguishing between fingers and prey difficult. The moray’s rear-hooked teeth and primitive but strong bite mechanism also makes bites on humans more severe, as the eel cannot release its grip, even in death, and must be manually pried off. They are not all venomous, their mouths are lined with nasty mucus and toxins, and they are Ugly.image
We have visited Smugglers , and Long Bay and Trellis. These bays are facing a new global warming issues…sargasso weed has been brought in on the currents and is building up in vulnerable east facing bays. It floats in covering the white sand with huge drifts of brown weed, which pretty soon becomes nasty.

We celebrated the end of the fist week with a solo sail to the Indians for lunch and snorkel. We reminded ourselves how to sail a catamaran And the drugs worked their magic, We celebrated with our first painkillers later at Pusser’s.


So no major changes here at all. Fewer tourists, more weed, lots of open mornings, and tons of mosquitoes, which bothers our mornings and eves on the balcony. They are felled by a swipe of windex.

John and Sandra use a lot of colorful Welsh slang, with a BVI twist….

Buttie: (male friend)
You toe rag ( painful person!)
Have a potch down the gully: (hanging in the alley)
Grotty like shandy van: (horrible messy place)
Scrut: (stupid fool)
Immense: (feeling great emotion)
Dirty as the road: (mucky)
Up the wooden gwelly: (up the stairs to bed)
Have a swill in the bosh: (wash in the sink)
Hits you like bleach: (stimulates your senses)
Shush your noise: (do be quiet)
Don’t forget your cardi: (wear something woolen when going out)
Lush: (rather good)
Sorted: (everything is fine)
Jammy bitch. ( lucky girl)
Gririt some welly ! : (put your foot down on the accelerator)
The Bog: (toilet)
Munting: (ugly)
Darren: (tough guy)
Skavvy: (person who begs)
Safe: (very good)
Solid: (something difficult)
Where you is? (Where are you?)
‘appnin: (how’s it going?)


About Tan

Hello bloggers! I am an artist, not a writer, but please enjoy my blog. We no longer own our lovely boat but we go often to Tortola to visit our friends, to look after their apartments and to spend fun time on their Edel Catamaran, Wildfire. I have just completed two Round the World voyages as Cunard's watercolour teacher on board Queen Mary (2016) and Queen Elizabeth (2017). Pete came along for the ride! See paintings and sketches, and read about our adventures here. Now we are back in our home/studio in Chagrin Falls, trying to reestablish a normal life.
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One Response to On Island

  1. Jeanne says:

    Love reading your blogs. Makes me feel like I am there with you !

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